Sail Around Mindoro Island

Puerto Galera

Perhaps the most significant cruising destination along Mindoro's northern shore is Puerto Galera in Oriental Mindoro – the eastern half of the Island.

Puerto Galera's main bay has always been a natural typhoon shelter for sailing vessels of all shapes and sizes. The Spanish recognized this at the beginning of their occupation of the islands, and they made Puerto Galera the primary trading town in North Mindoro. No surprise then that when the yacht owners from Manila were looking for a location, just one-day-sail away from their home port, they chose Puerto Galera to locate their alternative yacht club. Since 1991 the Puerto Galera Yacht Club has been accepting cruising yachts onto its 30+ managed moorings and used the epithet "The Cruising Yacht Club of the Philippines" since 2004. All yachts, sail or motor, are welcomed in Puerto Galera.

In the vicinity of Puerto Galera you can explore rivers, forests and mountains, you can go scuba diving, snorkeling and river trekking, you can also play golf and obtain most provisions that you may need. The only thing missing here is a full service haul-out facility – you can tide-haul in the adjacent Minolo Bay and there is a concrete slipway but this is really only suitable for twin keel and multihull yachts.

From Puerto Galera you may voyage East or West around Mindoro. Here below we assume you are voyaging first to the East . . . but the choice is yours.

Calapan

Voyaging East from Puerto Galera you soon arrive at the city of Calapan. Calapan is the road gateway to the South of Mindoro and also a transit point for passengers and cargo traveling to/from Metro Manila and all points to/from Mindanao along the "Philippine Nautical Highway System". As you can imagine, the on-water and on-road traffic can be voluminous depending on the time of day, so you must use your charts to navigate the marine Traffic Separation Zones with care within the Passage. Calapan itself may be useful to you as it has more banks than Puerto Galera and it also has a Bureau of Immigration office, where tourist visas can be extended.

After Calapan the coastline turns southerly and offers a long stretch of relatively featureless lowland to starboard. One on-water feature here, especially during the mornings, will be the traditional, powered-by-sail fishing boats, although in recent years motorized boats have somewhat replaced the traditional.

Dumali Point

The next significant feature is Dumali Point. Dumali Point is notable because it is a promontory that induces a wind-shadow, that extends for more miles East than one might imagine . . . so be prepared to motor over flat water here. If you are interested in bird-life you will probably see terns and the occasional booby off the eastern shores of Mindoro, from here onward going South. Pods of dolphins, sometimes numbering hundreds, are regularly observed in the vicinity as well as the occasional sea-turtle (turtles nest on the island described next).

Anchorage along the Mindoro coast to the immediate South (and southwest) of Dumali Point is considered safe and sheltered during most weather seasons.

After Dumali Point the most significant feature on the horizon is Maestre de Campo Island (a.k.a. Sibale and Conception). The island is an extinct volcano and politically part of Romblon Province - it will be covered in detail in the Romblon section of the website - but if you want a diversion then entering the inlet on the southern shore, at the town of Conception, is a possibility. The inlet is generally considered as a typhoon bolt-hole . . . when it can get crowded.

You may pass the municipality of Pinamalayan without much notice but if you need to get supplies then most fresh vegetables, fruits and seafood can be found there, plus of course a top-up on fuel if needed. There is good anchorage on sand off the town but best to leave one person aboard if you go ashore just in case the anchor drags. Flat water during the SW monsoon, a little swell possible during the NE monsoon.

Onward South the next visible town is Bongabong. Not notable for much but if you need supplies then anchoring off the long black-sand beach is acceptable. A little exposed during the NE monsoon but flat water during the SW monsoon.

The next significant town is Roxas. This is the original transit point for the next step along the "Philippine Nautical Highway System". Although the responsibility for transit has now been split between Roxas and Bulalacao (farther South). In the vicinity of Dangay Port you should be aware of numerous vehicular and passenger ferries arriving and departing.

An hour or so South of Roxas you will find the mostly sheltered port of Mansalay. Although not yet notable for anything cruising specific today, the bay does have an intriguing environment for the possible creation of a yacht club and/or a small marina on its North shore. If you do drop anchor in Mansalay and have an opinion, we would like to receive your comments.

Bulalacao

If you have been viewing the vista to starboard then you will have noticed the significant mountain range that traverses the length of Mindoro and has been with you since leaving Puerto Galera. That mountain range is about to come to the end at the municipality of Bulalacao – the southern tip of Mindoro Island.

Preceded by the uniquely special, tiny island of Buyayao, with its stunning coral stuffed shallows and white sand beaches, Bulalacao enjoys a special place in history.

Bulalacao was named by the indigenous Mangyan tribes' people and refers to a brilliant light that moves above at night. There are two explanations for the brilliant light, either: a believed extinct specie of forest bird that fluoresces when flying at night; or, from a shooting star that landed there millennia ago and deposited the thirteen islands that make up the municipality. The former is more plausible as Mindoro Island is not a stranger to unique species: there are the "tamaraw", or miniature wild buffalo, that still inhabit the forested uplands; and, the "Mindoro stripe-faced fruit bat" that lives in the forests and has only had one possible cousin on the entire planet - an ancient bat specie in Australia known only today because its likeness was painted on the walls of caves originally inhabited by aboriginals.

Bulalacao offers safe anchorage and a town market bursting with fresh fruits, vegetables and seafoods. Need to get really sheltered, try Balatasan Bay. Go ashore in the town and you can trek forested waterfalls and meet some of the indigenous Mangyan tribes' people from the mountainous interior of Mindoro Island. Into watersports? Try kitesurfing at Bislig Beach.

San Jose

From Bulalacao sail West towards the other half of Mindoro Island (Mindoro Oriental) and its capital City of San Jose.

San Jose has little to shout about but it does currently have the only domestic airport on Mindoro Island (need to get to/from Manila quickly, this is the way), and all major Philippine banks are here so you may have need to go ashore.

Immediately West of San Jose are the islands of Ilin and Ambulong . . . there is also possibly the "smallest island in the world" half-way between San Jose and Ilin Island - about large enough for a family of four to pull up their native boat and have a picnic lunch. Ilin and Ambulong islands have been trying to offer tourist attractions to compete with Boracay but have so far not quite made it, but they will welcome visitors and yachts and they are certainly more tranquil than in the vicinity of San Jose port.

Pandan Island

After San Jose you will turn North and probably head for Pandan Island, off the town of Sablayan. There is however a managed mooring about half-way to Pandan Island, off a beach resort appropriately named "Captain's Beach Resort" just waiting for cruising yachts to drop by and say hello.

Just a word of caution onward to Pandan Island, there is an island off Sablayan town named "Pandan South" and most recently it had a high-voltage cable strung between it and Mindoro Island that was not very high off the water at high-tide. Strongly recommend sail outside (West-of) Pandan South to reach Pandan Island.

Pandan Island features a well preserved coral reef around its North, West and SW periphery, and the Pandan Island Resort that occupies half of the island is the ideal place to obtain information about Apo Reef. The Pandan Island anchorage is SE of the island with good holding on sand; based on past experience, best to anchor in 5-6 meters because there are a few challenging rocks just waiting to embrace your anchor chain close to 10 meters depth.

Apo Reef

Apo Reef is half way between Mindoro Island and Busuanga Island but is embraced under Oriental Mindoro's administration.

Apo Reef is special. It is classed as "the second largest connected reef" on the planet after the Great Barrier Reef (Australia) and it is the largest reef in the Philippines. You will need to pay a mooring-fee and a fee-per-visitor at Apo Reef. You cannot anchor on or near the Reef. The Pandan Island Resort can assist you with connecting to the administrators of the Apo Reef Natural Park.

Heading North again, the Coast of Mindoro remains mountainous on starboard until you reach the town of Mamburao. A good place to stock up on fuel and supplies; Mamburao is the most significant town in the northwest of Mindoro.

If you have been sailing North during the NE monsoon that you will have had light winds since leaving San Jose. After Mamburao you will enjoy more breeze as there is a large gap in the mountains to the East that funnels the breeze West towards Palawan. But there is still one more stop on the West coast you may wish to make.

Paluan Bay

Paluan Bay is a favorite anchorage for yachts sailing from Palawan to more northerly destinations. It offers anchorage at almost any depth with good holding on sand, and close to shore is sheltered from most wave action. In the mornings you may be offered freshly caught fish by local fishermen or you can go ashore and explore the local agricultural offerings. There is a wildlife sanctuary just North of Paluan Bay that offers significant bird-life, especially migratory species.

If you do not want to be so close to the town then the northwest corner of the Bay is a quieter alternative for anchoring.

The significant visible feature ashore at Paluan Bay is Mount Calavite, immediately to the North. During the NE monsoon the local fishermen will tell you that if there is a significant cloud formation perched on top of Mount Calavite (and obscuring its peak) then the breeze in the Calavite Passage is very strong. What is meant by "very strong" can be variable but most likely 20+ knots, straight down the passage towards you.

Calvite Passage

There are two ways to navigate the strong breeze in the Calavite Passage: if your destination is Puerto Galera, you can motor-sail close to the Mindoro coast until you are near to the port of Abra de Ilog or, if your destination is farther North, on Luzon, then you can close-reach across and navigate the Golo Pass, and pass close to Lubang Island. Whichever you choose, try to time your voyage through the Calavite Passage to coincide with an ebb tide – the strong winds against a flood tide make for some very uncomfortable, square-waves in places.

If you do choose Golo Pass / Lubang Island then there are good anchorages around most of Lubang's coast and you can take time to appreciate the island's main claim to fame. Lubang Island was the place where the last Japanese soldier of World War II in the Philippines - Hiroo Onoda - finally surrendered to Philippine forces at the direct request of his former commanding officer Yoshimi Taniguchi, in March 1974 !!

If instead you are headed on to Puerto Galera then short-tack along the Mindoro coast during the NE monsoon or, open your spinnaker during the SW monsoon.